Building your own kitchen cabinets might seem intimidating at first, but once you understand the process, it becomes one of the most rewarding DIY woodworking projects you can tackle. Not only can you save a significant amount of money compared to buying pre-made cabinets, but you also gain complete control over the cabinet size, materials, layout, and finish. In this cabinet building tutorial, you’ll learn how to build a durable frameless kitchen base cabinet featuring double Shaker-style doors and two functional drawers using common woodworking tools and cabinet-grade plywood.

One of the biggest advantages of building your own cabinets is customization. Whether you’re remodeling a kitchen, upgrading a workshop, building garage storage, or creating a custom laundry room setup, these DIY cabinet plans can easily be adjusted to fit your space and storage needs. The frameless cabinet design provides a clean modern look while maximizing interior storage space, and the Shaker-style doors give the cabinet a timeless appearance that works well in both traditional and modern homes.

What You’ll Learn in This Cabinet Building Tutorial

In this woodworking project tutorial, you’ll learn how to:

• Cut and assemble a frameless cabinet box
• Build and install drawer boxes with drawer slides
• Construct Shaker-style cabinet doors and drawer fronts
• Install concealed hinges and cabinet hardware
• Build a strong and durable DIY cabinet using pocket hole joinery
• Finish and customize the cabinet to match your space

This project is beginner-friendly for woodworkers who have basic experience using tools such as a table saw, drill, pocket hole jig, and router. More experienced woodworkers can also use these woodworking plans as a foundation for creating fully customized kitchen cabinet systems.

Download the Printable PDF Woodworking Plans

If you’d like a more organized version of this project, be sure to download the printable PDF woodworking plans. The plans include detailed measurements, cut lists, diagrams, and step-by-step instructions that make the cabinet construction process easier to follow in the workshop.

Having printable woodworking project plans nearby can help reduce mistakes, improve efficiency, and simplify the entire cabinet-building process from start to finish.

Before You Start Building

Before starting this DIY cabinet project, take time to review the material list, tools, and cut dimensions carefully. Accurate measurements and proper assembly are essential for building cabinet doors, drawers, and frames that fit correctly and operate smoothly.

Now let’s get started with the step-by-step tutorial on how to build a frameless kitchen base cabinet with double doors and drawers.

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Time to Complete	Total Cost	Skill Level
8 Hours	$160 per section (36″ wide)	Beginner to Intermediate

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Download Printable Plans in PDF

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Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size.  See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links.

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Dimensions

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Base Cabinet Diagram

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Note: When building kitchen cabinets, it’s important to be precise when measuring and cutting each piece. Using the proper woodworking tools will help ensure the cabinet components are cut accurately and assembled correctly for a professional-looking result.

The basic tools needed for this DIY cabinet-building project include a tape measure, drill, table saw or Kreg Accu-Cut circular saw, miter saw, Kreg Jig, nail gun, random orbital sander, clamps, Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig, and a dovetail saw. Having the right tools will improve both the quality of your work and the efficiency of the cabinet construction process.

When choosing plywood for kitchen cabinets, there are several important features to consider. One of the most important factors is the plywood grade. A-grade cabinet plywood is generally more durable, reliable, and visually appealing than lower-grade plywood options. It’s also recommended to use rotary-cut plywood, which provides more consistent strength and typically contains fewer knots and imperfections.

For cabinet construction, 3/4-inch cabinet-grade plywood is commonly considered the best choice. Thinner plywood may flex or warp over time, while thicker material can add unnecessary weight and cost without providing much additional benefit.

For the best appearance and durability, consider using plywood with a birch veneer face on both sides. Birch plywood offers excellent structural stability and provides a smooth surface that works especially well for painted or finished cabinets.

Step 1: Cut the Cabinet Side Panels and Toe-Kick Notches

Start by cutting the largest cabinet parts from the plywood sheet according to the cut list layout. The layout and grain orientation are designed to help reduce material waste and improve efficiency during cabinet construction.

Using 3/4″ cabinet-grade plywood, cut two side panels to 23 3/4″ x 34 1/2″ using either a table saw or a circular saw with a Kreg Accu-Cut guide system.

Next, cut a 4 1/4″ x 2 3/4″ toe-kick notch from the bottom front corner of both side panels, as shown in the illustration. This toe-kick cutout creates recessed space at the bottom of the cabinet for comfortable standing access once the cabinet assembly is complete.

If you’re building multiple DIY kitchen base cabinets, it’s worth making a simple toe-kick template. A template allows you to quickly trace identical cutouts on every panel, saving time and improving consistency throughout the project.

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Step 2: Cut the Bottom and Shelf Panels and Drill Pocket Holes

Using the same 3/4″ plywood, cut the following cabinet pieces:

• One bottom panel: 34 1/2″ x 23 3/4″
• One shelf panel: 34 1/2″ x 9″

Next, set your Kreg Jig for 3/4″ material thickness. Drill four pocket holes along the front edge of the side panels, as shown in the picture.

When drilling pocket holes, spacing is important. Placing the holes closer together creates a stronger joint, but adding too many unnecessary holes only slows down the cabinet-building process without providing much additional strength. Aim for even spacing that provides solid support while keeping the assembly clean and efficient.

Then drill pocket holes in both the shelf panel and the bottom panel, as shown in the illustration. These pocket holes should face downward during cabinet assembly so they remain hidden after installation.

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Step 3: Cut the Back and Base Support Pieces

Cut the remaining cabinet components from 3/4″ plywood:

• One back panel: 34 1/2″ x 29 1/2″
• Two base support pieces: 34 1/2″ x 4 1/4″

After cutting the pieces to size, drill the pocket holes as shown in the picture. These parts will help strengthen the cabinet frame and provide additional support during the cabinet assembly process.

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Step 4: Assemble the Cabinet Base Frame

When assembling cabinet parts with pocket holes, you can use either pocket hole screws alone or combine them with wood glue. Adding wood glue creates a stronger joint and helps prevent the connection from loosening over time. However, once the glue dries, the parts cannot be disassembled without causing damage, so plan accordingly before assembly.

Since the cabinet box will eventually be secured to the wall and won’t experience much movement, wood glue is generally unnecessary for the main cabinet frame. It is more beneficial for components such as the cabinet doors and drawers where added durability is important.

Begin the cabinet assembly by laying the left side panel flat on a work surface. Attach the front base support piece and the back base support piece using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

When driving pocket hole screws, always clamp the boards securely before fastening them together. Proper clamping prevents the plywood pieces from shifting or becoming misaligned during assembly. Even slight movement can affect the overall appearance and squareness of the cabinet.

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Step 5: Install the Cabinet Bottom Panel

Next, attach the bottom panel to the left cabinet side panel and the back base support piece using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Make sure the edges are flush and square before tightening the screws. Keeping the cabinet components aligned during this step is important for proper cabinet construction and will make the remaining assembly process much easier.

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Step 6: Attach the Cabinet Back Panel

Take the back panel and attach it to the cabinet frame using the pre-drilled pocket holes. Make sure the pocket holes are facing toward the back of the cabinet so they remain hidden after installation.

As you secure the back panel, check that the cabinet stays square by verifying that all corners remain aligned. A square cabinet frame will ensure the doors and drawers fit properly later in the project.

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Step 7: Install the Right Side Panel and Shelf

Next, attach the right side panel to the cabinet frame using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Before fully tightening the screws, make sure all cabinet edges are flush and the cabinet box remains square.

Now install the shelf panel with the pocket holes facing downward so they stay hidden after assembly.

To ensure the shelf is perfectly level and not slanted, first determine the exact shelf height you want inside the cabinet. Then cut two temporary support boards to that height. Place one temporary board under each side of the shelf to hold it in position while fastening it in place.

Once the shelf is properly aligned, secure it using the pocket hole screws. After all screws are installed, remove the temporary support boards. This method helps keep the shelf level and makes the cabinet assembly process much easier and more accurate.

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Step 8: Cut the Stretchers and Drawer Divider Panel

Cut three stretcher boards to 34 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. The stretcher boards can be made from either 3/4″ plywood or a 1×3 board, depending on the material you prefer for your cabinet construction.

Next, cut the divider panel to 23″ x 5 1/8″. This divider will be installed between the two drawer openings and will serve as the mounting surface for the drawer slides.

After cutting the pieces to size, drill the pocket holes as shown in the picture. Proper pocket hole placement will make the final cabinet assembly stronger and easier during installation.

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Step 9: Install the Stretchers and Drawer Divider

Attach the front and back stretcher boards to the top section of the kitchen base cabinet using pocket hole screws.

Next, locate the center point on the front stretcher board. The center should measure 17 1/4″ from the inside edge of the cabinet. This mark indicates where the divider panel will be installed.

Attach the divider panel as shown in the picture. It is extremely important that this board is installed perfectly straight and square. Use a speed square or carpenter’s square to verify alignment before fully securing it in place. Even a slight angle can cause the drawer boxes to bind or prevent the drawer slides from operating smoothly.

Once the divider panel is secured, attach the bottom stretcher board. You can fasten the stretcher to the divider panel using a nail gun for quicker installation.

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Step 10: Cut the Drawer Box Pieces

Now it’s time to build the drawer boxes for the cabinet.

For the drawer boxes, use either 1/2″ plywood or 1/2″ MDF. In this project, the drawer boxes are made from 1/2″ plywood for added strength and durability.

Cut the following drawer box pieces:

• Two bottom panels: 22 1/2″ x 14 7/8″
• Four front and back panels: 14 7/8″ x 4 1/8″
• Four side panels: 22 1/2″ x 4 5/8″

Before assembly, double-check all measurements and make sure the pieces are square. Accurate cuts are important for smooth drawer operation and proper cabinet assembly.

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Step 11: Assemble the Drawer Boxes

For this step, you will need wood glue and a nail gun with 1″ brad nails.

Start by laying the drawer bottom panel flat on your work surface. Apply wood glue along the edge of the bottom panel, then attach the front and back drawer pieces using 1″ brad nails.

Next, apply glue to the remaining edges and attach the side panels to complete the drawer box assembly. Make sure all corners are flush and square before fastening the pieces together.

Repeat the process for the second drawer box. Once complete, you should have two fully assembled drawer boxes ready for the drawer slides.

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Step 12: Install the Drawer Slides on the Drawer Boxes

Now install the drawer slides onto the drawer boxes.

Proper drawer slide installation is critical for smooth drawer operation. If one slide is installed slightly higher or lower than the other, the drawer may bind, tilt, or become difficult to open and close. Both slides must remain perfectly parallel and level.

Measure 3″ down from the top edge of each drawer box side and draw a horizontal line on both sides. This line will be used to position the drawer slides consistently.

Next, pull the drawer slides apart by extending them fully and pressing the release clip. This separates the slide into two pieces. The inner slide section will be attached directly to the drawer box.

Align the screw holes of the inner drawer slide with the center of the line you marked earlier, then secure the slide with screws. Make sure the front edge of the slide is flush with the front of the drawer box.

Repeat the process for all remaining drawer slides, making sure each slide is installed straight and aligned evenly on both sides of the drawer boxes.

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Step 13: Install the Drawer Slides Inside the Cabinet

Now it’s time to install the outer portion of the drawer slides inside the cabinet frame.

On the inside of the cabinet side panels, measure 3 1/4″ down from the stretcher board and draw a level pencil line. Repeat this step on both the left and right cabinet panels.

Next, do the same on the divider panel by measuring 3 1/4″ below the stretcher board and drawing a pencil line. These layout lines will help keep the drawer slides level and aligned during installation.

Take the outer section of the drawer slide and position it so the mounting screw holes align with the pencil marks. Secure the slides to the cabinet side panels and divider panel with screws.

Make sure the front edge of each drawer slide sits flush with the front edge of the cabinet frame. Keeping the slides aligned properly is critical for smooth drawer movement.

Once all drawer slides are installed, insert the drawer boxes into the cabinet and test their movement. The drawers should slide smoothly without binding or rubbing. If needed, make small adjustments before moving on to the cabinet door and drawer front construction.

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Step 14: Cut the Shaker-Style Door and Drawer Front Pieces

Building your own cabinet doors and drawer fronts is often the most challenging part of a DIY cabinet building project. Some woodworkers prefer ordering them from a professional cabinet shop, especially if they do not have the tools required for door construction and finishing.

For this project, we’ll build Shaker-style cabinet doors using a wood router and a router bit set specifically designed for Shaker door profiles.

Since the cabinet doors and drawer fronts are the most visible part of the cabinet, material selection is important. Depending on your desired finish and cabinet style, you can use solid wood, plywood, MDF, or particle board.

For this cabinet construction project, we’ll use 3/4″ MDF, which is easy to machine and works well for painted cabinet doors.

Cut the following pieces for the cabinet doors and drawer fronts:

Door Stiles

• Four pieces: 24″ x 3 1/2″

Drawer Front Stiles

• Four pieces: 6″ x 3 1/2″

Rails for Doors and Drawer Fronts

• Eight pieces: 11 3/8″ x 2 1/2″

Next, cut the center panels from 1/4″ MDF:

Door Center Panels

• Two pieces: 11 3/8″ x 19 1/2″

Drawer Front Center Panels

• Two pieces: 11 3/8″ x 1 1/2″

Before routing or assembling the pieces, make sure all cuts are clean, square, and consistent. Accurate cuts will help the cabinet doors fit properly and improve the final appearance of the woodworking project.

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Step 15: Route the Shaker Door Profiles

As mentioned earlier, there are several different methods for building cabinet doors. For this DIY woodworking project, we’ll use a wood router with a tongue-and-groove router bit set designed for Shaker-style cabinet doors.

Using the groove-cutting bit, cut a 1/4″ wide x 1/4″ deep groove along the center edge of each stile. This groove creates the channel that will hold the center panel.

Next, use the same router bit set to cut a matching 1/4″ wide x 1/4″ deep groove along the center edge of each rail.

After cutting the grooves, cut a tongue profile on both ends of every rail piece. These tongues will fit into the grooves on the stiles, creating a strong and properly aligned joint during cabinet door assembly.

Repeat this process for both the cabinet doors and the drawer front frames.

Before assembling the doors, dry-fit all the pieces together to ensure the joints fit tightly and the center panels slide properly into the grooves.

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Step 16: Assemble and Sand the Cabinet Doors and Drawer Fronts

Before assembling the cabinet doors and drawer fronts, sand all individual pieces using a random orbital sander with 320-grit sandpaper. Sanding the parts before assembly is much easier than trying to sand tight corners and profiles after everything is glued together.

Once all pieces are sanded smooth, begin assembling the doors and drawer fronts.

Apply wood glue inside the grooves of the stiles and rails, as well as on the tongues of the rail pieces. Insert the 1/4″ center panel into the grooves, then connect the rails and stiles together. Make sure all joints fit tightly and the frame stays square during assembly.

Use clamps to hold the door assembly firmly together while the glue dries. If you do not have clamps available, strong painter’s tape or assembly tape can help keep the pieces secure until the glue sets.

Before leaving the assembly to dry, check that the door is perfectly square and all joints are fully seated. Make any necessary adjustments before the glue begins to cure.

Place the assembled door on a flat surface and keep it flat while the glue dries completely. This helps prevent the door from twisting or warping.

Repeat the same process for the second cabinet door and both drawer fronts.

After the glue has fully cured, use the random orbital sander again to smooth any rough edges, glue residue, or uneven joints so the surfaces are clean and ready for finishing.

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Step 17: Paint or Finish the Doors and Drawer Fronts

Once the final sanding is complete, apply your finish to the cabinet doors and drawer fronts.

For painted cabinets, apply primer and paint to all surfaces, making sure to cover the edges and routed profiles evenly. If you are using solid wood instead of MDF, this is a good time to apply your preferred wood stain followed by a protective polyurethane finish.

Allow the paint, stain, or clear coat to dry completely before moving on to hardware installation and final cabinet assembly.

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Step 18: Install the Hinges, Doors and Drawer Fronts

After the paint has fully dried, measure and mark the hinge locations on each cabinet door. Mark 5″ down from the top and 5″ up from the bottom of the door using a pencil.

Use a Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig to drill the hinge cup holes. Follow the jig instructions carefully to determine the proper edge distance for the concealed hinges.

Next, install the 1 1/4″ overlay cabinet hinges onto the doors. Then attach the doors to the cabinet side panels. Position the doors so the bottom edge sits flush with the cabinet bottom panel. Minor hinge adjustments can be made later to fine-tune the door alignment and spacing.

Once the doors are installed, position the drawer fronts over the drawer boxes. Hold each drawer front in place while making sure the gaps between the doors and drawer fronts remain even and consistent.

Secure the drawer fronts by driving screws through the inside of the drawer boxes into the back of the drawer fronts. The top edge of each drawer front should sit approximately 7/8″ above the top of the drawer box for proper alignment and spacing.

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Step 19: Install the Cabinet Handles and Drawer Pulls

Use a measuring tape to determine the distance between the handle mounting holes. Always measure from the center of one hole to the center of the other hole to ensure accurate placement.

Next, use a pencil to mark the handle locations on the cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Take your time during this step to make sure all handles are aligned evenly for a clean, professional appearance.

Using a drill bit that matches the diameter of the handle screws, drill the mounting holes where you made the marks.

Place the handles over the drilled holes and insert the screws from the back side of the doors and drawer fronts. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver, being careful not to over-tighten them, which could strip the MDF or damage the hardware.

After all handles are installed, test each one to make sure it is secure and operates properly.

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Step 20: Install the Toe-Kick Cover and Countertop

To finish the cabinet, cut a 1/4″ MDF toe-kick cover to 4 1/2″ x 36″. Attach the toe-kick cover to the front base section of the cabinet using a nail gun.

Next, install your countertop material. There are many countertop options available depending on your budget, style, and where the cabinet will be used.

For kitchen cabinets, popular countertop choices include:

• Quartz
• Natural granite
• Marble
• Soapstone
• Butcher block
• Laminate countertops

If you are building cabinets for a garage or workshop, a simple and affordable option is to laminate two layers of 3/4″ plywood together to create a durable work surface. You can also apply plywood edge banding around the exposed edges to give the countertop a cleaner and more finished appearance.At this point, your DIY frameless kitchen base cabinet with double doors and drawers is complete.