Earlier this year I’ve built a DIY farmhouse dining table and farmhouse side benches. I also wanted to build two farmhouse chairs that would go along with this table. So I went through a lot of pictures on Pinterest trying to find a chair that I wanted. I found a few examples, but I wanted the back of the chair to be taller than the chairs I found on Pinterest. Here are the steps for making this DIY farmhouse chair.
- Cut 2×6 for Rear Legs and Back Post
- Build a Cross Rail for the Back of the Chair
- Assemble the Cross Rail
- Assemble Back and Front Legs Together
- Attach Cross Rails to the Back Posts
- Assemble the Seat Cushion
I designed and build this DIY farmhouse kitchen chair with a tall back to match our dining table set. This DIY chair is very sturdy and will support a lot of weight. Also, with a soft cushion, it’s very comfortable as opposed to just having a wood DIY chair top.
For those who are interested in woodworking and want to try to build this DIY chair, the printable PDF plans are available below. You’re more than welcome to make any dimensional adjustments to these plans to match your needs.
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Farmhouse Chair PDF
$8.97
This PDF download includes Cut Diagrams, a List of Supplies, and 3D illustrations with detailed steps to build the project. Measurements are in imperial and not metric. Does NOT include SketchUp/CAD files.
The plans are embedded on the webpage for free, but if you would like to support the website, you can pay a small fee to purchase the printable PDFs.
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Tools for this project
Material List
- 2x6x8′ (x1)
- 1x4x8′ (x1)
- 1x3x8′ (x1)
- 2x3x8′ (x1)
- 19″x20″ – 3/4″ Plywood (x1)
- 34×34 Fabric
- 21x22x4″ Thick Cushion
- 2″ Brad Nails
- Staiples
- 1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
- Wood Glue
Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size. See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.
Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links.
Dimensions
Farmhouse Dining Chair Diagram
Step 1 – Cut 2×6 for Rear Legs and Back Post
First, using a miter saw, cut two 2×6 to 48″ in length. These 48” long 2x6s are going to be used for the rear legs and the back post. If you prefer to have a shorter back post for your farmhouse chair, then you could always make it shorter. Draw the outline of the leg/post on the 2×6 as shown in the picture. Use a skill saw for most of the cutting and then use a jig saw for cutting the center back of these legs. You will not be able to make a cut in the center back area with a skill saw, so a jig saw is the best tool for this.
Step 2 – Build a Cross Rail for the Back of the Chair
Next, we’ll make a cross rail that connects both of the back posts. With a miter saw, cut two rails at 45 degrees on both ends to 17 5/8” in length. Since I didn’t want to buy an additional 1×3 board just for these two rails, I used a 1×4 board instead. Then, with a table saw I ripped the 17 5/8” long pieces to the width of the 1×3 (actual width is 2 ½”). See the cut list for more dimensions of the cross rail. Next, find the center of rail and cut 2 ½” wide by 3/8” deep notch (3/8” is half of the board thickness). To cut the notch in the rail, I used a skill saw. Lower the blade so that is sticking out 3/8 of an inch. Then in the area marked for a notch, cut many times until you cut all the wood out and making a notch. You could use a wood carving chisel to get any remaining wood out of the notch.
Step 3 – Assemble the Cross Rail
Now take 1×4 board and 1×3 board and cut both of them to 16” in length. Then using a Kreg Jig, drill one pocket hole on each side of the 1×4 and 1×3 board (see picture). When attaching these rails together make sure to use wood glue in each seam/connection. The notches you created in the previous step will slide inside one another, creating an X-shaped cross. Use clamps to hold this cross rail in place, and then using a Nail Gun (with 2” brad nails), attach the cross to the upper and lower rail.
Step 4 – Assemble Back and Front Legs Together
Take a 2×3 board and cut two pieces to 17 ½” in length. These boards will be the front legs. Then take a 1×3 board and cut two apron pieces to 17 ½” in length. These boards will connect the front leg to the back leg right under the seat. Similar to the cross rail in step 2, I didn’t want to buy additional boards for the stretchers, so I used a 1×4 board for ripping it in half, creating 1 ¼” wide boards. Using these 1 ¼” wide boards, I cut two 19” long pieces with one side at 10 degrees. These boards are called stretchers that will also connect the front and the back legs but this time at the bottom. Drill pocket holes for both apron and stretcher boards, as shown in the picture. Attache these pieces together using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step 5 – Attach Cross Rails to the Back Posts
Similar to step 4, cut apron and stretcher pieces for the front and the back of the chair. These pieces are all 16 inches long. Drill pocket holes as shown on the picture and attach both sides of the chair together with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Then attach the cross rail to the back posts. The pocket holes on the top of the cross could be covered with a 3/8” dowel to hide the screws. See Dining Table or Kids’ Step Stool project as an example of how to cover the pocket holes with a 3/8” dowel. At this point, I painted the whole farmhouse chair frame with primer and then white paint.
Step 6 – Assemble the Seat Cushion
Take ¾” plywood and cut one piece to 19″x20″. Then cut the cushion 1″ larger than the plywood on all four sides (21×22). Wrap cushion with fabric and staple fabric on the bottom to plywood. Once complete, attach the seat to the chair using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Dining Chair Build your own set of chairs using these free woodworking plans. Not as hard to do as you might think.
Thank you, this was a great resource. It made chair building for the average person without an expensive shop a pleasant and affordable experience. I look forward to more of your posts.
Love the chair plans, I was wandering what is the weight limit of the chairs?
Have a kreg system for pocket screws and love using it but never used it for load baring things.
Hi Aaron, I’m not 100% sure how much weight pocket screws support. But that’s an interesting topic. I’ve had people ask me about how much weight the shoe rack bench could support, a project that I’ve built previously. But I’ll do some research on the pocket holes and maybe write an article about it.
Hi! This looks like a great build. Does the seat only sit on 3 of the 4 apron boards since the plywood is cut square? Does the cushion cover up the back apron? Thanks!
Hi Art, The cushion does not cover the back apron. Yes the seat only sits on 3 apron boards. If you want an additional back of the seat support, you could just add another back apron to the one that’s already there. This way you’ll have all four sides on an apron board.
thanks! does the cushion overhang that back apron?
Viktor,
Do the two pocket holes on bothe the stretcher & apron- that attaches to the top & bottom of the cross piece in step 4 , really have pocket screws on the thin sides of the board Rather than the backside? Could I put them on the back face ?
Hi Jay, Yes you could place the pocket holes on the backside or the front of the rails. The reason why I had the pocket holes at the bottom and top, I was trying to hide them. I used a dowel to cover the top pocket hole and painted over it.
Thanks so much, great project !
Where do the 2” wood screws get used at in this build? I’ve already made one chair and don’t want to continue to make the other 7 until I know where/if these screws are used for this project
Drew, I deleted the 2″ screws, that was a mistake. thanks
My mother-in-law asked me for a farmhouse table and chairs. The chairs were a concern until I found these plans. Thanks for the help.
Thank you Jason!
These plans are great! If I wanted to make the seat top 3 inches higher would I just increase the length of the leg board 3 inches and ensure that the 4″ flat part starts and finishes 3″ higher? Or conversely could I leave the whole thing at 48″ but just change the top and bottom dimensions to move the 4″ flat part up?
Hi Duke, Yes I would leave the whole thing at 48″ and adjust the 4″ flat part and make the front legs 3″ higher. If you go over 48″ for the back leg, then you would need to purchase a 10-foot long 2×6 to fit both legs on one board, and you’ll have much more wasted material.
Hey Victor!
Currently building 4 chairs right now from your plan. My question to you is how far from the top of the rear legs do you come down to attach the “X”? Build has been awesome so far. Thanks!
Hi Corey,
I installed the X about 1″ from the top of the rear legs. But you could go lower if you want. There is plenty of room to go lower.
How could I adjust this to be a wood slat seat instead of a cushion?
Hi Amanda, I don’t think you need to adjust anything, besides replacing plywood/cushion with wood slats. I would make the wood seat slightly longer on the back so that it sits on the back apron board.
Would it be hard to modify this design to not have a cushion? I love the chair design but I prefer a 100% wooden chair without a cushion.
Hi Jessica, you could keep the same design and replace the plywood/cushion with a wooden seat. The only thing you would need to add is pocket holes in the apron boards so that you could attach the wooden seat.
Hi Victor. Nice step by step. I am considering using these plans for a farmhouse table I just finished. Like Jessica, I would prefer to go with a wood seat as well. Thinking most likely a 2x something. Thus the actual depth would be 1-1/2 right? That being said going the wood seat route the height of the legs/aprons would need to be adjusted 3.25in to accommodate for the thickness of the cushion and 3/4in plywood you used in your design correct! Once again great plans! Looking forward to starting this build!
Hi Corey, I don’t think you have to adjust the legs/aprons, because if you take 17 1/2″ legs plus 1 1/2″ wood seat that gives you a 19″ high seat. Unless you want the seat to be higher, then yes you would need to make the legs taller.
Hi. Love the plans for your work. Makes it simple for me that is new to woodworking and very helpful. I started these chairs and cut the back supports with a jigsaw but the cuts are off and wavy. Do you have any suggestions to make my cuts with a jigsaw more straight and concise? Thanks! Will continue to bu plans
Hi Ross,
Yes cutting a straight line with a jig saw could be complicated. What I usually do is clamp a straight board right next to the cut that I need to make. Then having the jig saw against the straight board allows me to make a straight cut following the boards as a guide. If you already made the cut, you’ll just have to use a random orbital sander to sand it down.
Great! Thank you. I will most likely give it another shot on a new board to make it a cleaner cut.
Easy to follow instructions, on a sturdy and stylish design. Built this chair, 3 more in progress, as well as the Farmhouse X desk and 3 of the Farmhouse X shelves. Personalization mods were simple to make. Thanks
Thanks James!
Hi there! Thanks for sharing these plans! I just have one question, about how much would you estimate that the seat squishes down when you’re sitting in the chair? Trying to determine if I need to adjust the seat height down a bit for my table. My table is 30″ however it has braces that run between the legs that would decrease the true height from the floor to about 26″. Thanks!
Hi Kim, I would say the cushion compresses about 3″ when you sit on it.
What wood species would you recommend or have used on these chairs
Hi Joseph,
It all depends on your budget. I used pine wood for this chair and it turned out very good. But sometimes pine boards would warp or twist, so you’ll have to pick the boards carefully. The best wood is oak or maple, but they are much more expensive.
These plans were exactly what I was looking for. Made just a few minor changes, and they came out great. Thank you!
I was wanting to make wooden seats and cut a notch for the seat to slide into on both sides of the back legs. My question is, how much overhang should I allow all the way around the chairs?