How to Build a DIY Planter Container with Corrugated Steel

DIY Planter Container with corrugates steel

I’ve heard someone say “growing your own food is like printing your own money”. But besides the money, there are many benefits of growing fruits and vegetables in your garden. For some of us, growing vegetables in a container is the only option. The secret is, most vegetables actually grow really well in containers. I’ve designed and built a DIY Planter Container with Corrugated Steel to grow my vegetables.

For this container, I used pressure treated lumber from Home Depot. The treated lumber is typically used for outdoor fencing and could withstand moisture and harsh weather. The inside of the container is sheeted with corrugates steel on the sides and a flat sheet of metal on the bottom. I wanted to make this container deep to hold a lot of soil for plants to grow deep roots. Also, the box is made at a convenient height for taking care of the vegetables.

You also might be interested in DIY Indoor Plant Stand for your indoor plants.

Planter Container with Corrugated Steel PDF


This PDF download includes Cut Diagrams, a List of Supplies, and 3D illustrations with detailed steps to build the project. Measurements are in imperial and not metric. Does NOT include SketchUp/CAD files.

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Planter Container with Corrugated Steel

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Tools for this Project

Material List

Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size.  See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links. 


DIY Planter Container dimensions

Step 1 – Cut and Assemble Long Sides

Since this planter box is for outdoors and will be exposed to moisture, it’s a good idea to use pressure-treated wood. Pressure-treated wood is commonly used for outdoor fencing.  Start with making the long side of the planter box. Take 2×4 and cut two pieces to 65″ in length and one piece to 19″. Then take 2×6 and cut two pieces to 26″ in length. Drill pocket holes using Kreg Jig as shown in the picture. Assemble these pieces using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Repeat this step to make a second long side since you need front and back.

assemble front and back pieces for DIY Planter Container

Step 2 – Assemble Short Side

Using 2×4 cut two pieces to 19″ in length and two pieces to 26″. Drill two pocket holes on each end of the 19″ board. Also, drill three pocket holes on the 26″ boards. These pocket holes will be used to attach to the long sides of the planter box. Now attach these boards together using 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws as shown in the picture.

assemble end pieces for DIY Planter Container

Step 3 – Attach Both Short and Long Sides Together

Place all sides on a flat surface and attach both long sides and short sides together using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

attach sides to the end pieces to DIY Planter Container

Step 4 – Add Bottom Blocks

Flip the planter box upside down. Take 2×6 and cut 5 boards to 29″ in length. Place two boards at each side and the remaining three evenly spaced out. Then attach all boards with 2 1/2″ wood screws.

attach 2x4 to under the DIY Planter Container

Step 5 – Place Sheet Metal Inside the DIY Planter Container

The bottom of the box will need to be covered with either flat sheet metal or with Corrugated Steel Roof Panel. Drill a bunch of 1/4″ holes through metal for water drainage.

place flat sheet metal on the bottom of DIY Planter Container

Step 6 – Fasten Corrugated Steel Roof Panels

For the last step, place Corrugated Steel Roof Panels on all four sides attaching it with wood screws. Use red sheet metal snips to cut panels for the short sides. Using wood screws attach one 2×4 on top. This will prevent the box from coming apart once dirt is added inside. Metal angle or metal wire could be an alternative to 2×4 on top if you prefer not to use it. You’re done with DIY Planter Container.

DIY Planter Container with corrugated steel

23 thoughts on “How to Build a DIY Planter Container with Corrugated Steel”

  1. Exactly what I was looking for! So clear and easy to follow and just the design I had in mind. Thank you for creating and sharing. I’m gonna head over to your website to see what other sanity saving goodies you have 🙂

  2. This is exactly what we were planning on doing, but without a “plan”, thank you!
    I need to place these above ground, next to a deck, approximately 2 – 3 ft off the ground. I was thinking of putting the outer 2×6’s on 4×4 posts to accomplish that. I’m not sure if the inner 2×6’s will hold though.
    An option to make them lighter, a friend has a couple hundred plastic Milk Jugs so I am going to fill at least half of these boxes with those Milk Jugs before adding dirt. I’ll let you know if it’s successful or if there is way too much weight still on the inner 2×6’s

    • Hi Danny, Yes, please let me know how your modifications to the planter container work out. I’m always interested in new ideas. We had this planter container for several years full of dirt and it still holding strong and producing vegetables.

      • I have the 3 of them finished now but waiting on the milk jugs still.
        I decided to place them on beams spanning existing 4×4 posts. Half of them under my deck and the other half existing from a retaining wall I’ve been rebuilding as well.
        I’d LOVE to share a picture of them. They’re beautiful! Let me know how I can and I’d gladly share a Pic. Thank you.

  3. My kids and I made two and modified the design to include a lattice privacy screen. Replace 2 – 26″ 2×6 boards with 2 – 74″ 2×6 boards, another 65″ 2×4 board for the top, a 44 1/2″ 2×4 for a center support, and a 4×8 sheet of lattice.

    Can’t post a picture, sorry.

    • That’s the beauty of making your own projects, you could modify and adjust existing plans to whatever you like. When I find a project to work on, I almost always change it to how I want it. It’s awesome!

  4. This is the best DIY plan I have ever seen in terms of clarity. This should be the text book design plan for anybody posting DIY projects! Love the color coding as you go to easily identify which cut goes where on the overall plan. Makes it remarkably easy to make your own modifications for any of the dimensions as rarely does somebody else’s DIY plan maintain the exact dimensions that somebody else is using it for. Thank you!

  5. Hello! Thank you for this plan it is exactly what I am looking for. Is it necessary to use the bottom piece of flat sheet metal? I will be putting my planters on top of grass and I am not planning to ever move them. Is there a reason I would really need to have a steel bottom?

    • Hi Lisa, I used metal tape in the corners. The metal tape sticks to metal very well. It doesn’t make it waterproof but at least the dirt doesn’t come out from the sides.

  6. If you put the drain holes in the sides about 6 inches from the bottom and fill the bottom with gravel you create a water reservoir. Install vertically a piece of PVC pipe so that it is above the surface of the dirt and ends in the gravel. Water down the pipe. This will mean you only have to water once a week (depending on the climate). It will save you a lot of water and the plants will throw deep roots.

  7. How would I go about making an elevated version of these plans? I would love to make an elevated version of this planter on wheels so I can chase the Sun on my patio throughout the year. Would it be too heavy for wheels/movement? Thanks Victor, love the design 🙂

    • Hi Sarah,
      There are different types of wheels depending on what you’re using it for. HomeDepot sells iron wheel, and those are for heavy loads. I’ve used them on large planters, and they work good. Make sure to add plenty of support for the wheels to hold that weight.


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