If you’re looking to build a small project for your living room, check out this DIY Farmhouse End Table. This project may seem complicated to make because of different angle cuts, but it’s actually quite simple. I’ll walk you through the steps on how to accurately cut the angles and assemble the project.
You also might be interested in DIY Dining Table and DIY Kids Table.
Time to Complete
Download Printable Plans in PDF
Tools for this project
- 2x2x8′ (x2)
- 1x2x8′ (x1)
- 2x4x4′ (x1)
- 1x8x4′ (x1)
- 1 1/4″ Brad Nails
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Holes Screws
- 2 1/2″ Pocket Holes Screws
- Wood Glue
- Espresso Stain
- White Paint
Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size. See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.
Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links.
Step 1 – Cut Vertical Legs Pieces for the End Table
When building a wood project you always want to strive to make it as perfect as you can. There are few simple things you could do to make the project look good. Learning how to make perfect cuts using a miter saw or a table saw will solve a lot of issues and will make the boards connect with each other much better.
This project has some pieces that need to match each other perfectly. To make the angles and measurements exactly the same, use a stop block on your miter saw. You don’t need a fancy stop block, just use a clamp. Once the first board is placed on the miter saw, clamp a trigger clamp on the end of the board to your miter saw. Now the next pieces will be placed against the trigger clamp to make exactly the same cuts.
For the first cut, rotate your miter saw 64-degrees. Then take 2×2 and cut it on one end. Measure 20” to make the second cut, but before cutting the board, set your stop block with a trigger clamp and then make the cut. Now you could cut the remaining three vertical leg pieces to 20″ in length with a 64-degree miter cut on both sides. Using the stop block will ensure you have exactly identical pieces.
Step 2 – Cut Diagonal Leg Pieces
Again, take 2×2 and cut diagonal leg boards to 12 1/2″ in length with a 65-degree miter cut on one end and 26-degree on the other. Instead of rotating your miter saw back and forth for different angles, first cut the 26-degree ends. First, you would cut four boards to 23″ at the parallel 26-degree cut. Then rotate your blade to 64-degree and cut them down to 12 1/2″ degree with a stop block. Once you clamp the stop block, you want to make sure to cut all identical boards before removing the stop block.
Step 3 – Cut 2×4 Boards for the Base of the Table
Next, take 2×4 and cut one piece to 16” in length and two pieces to 6 1/4″ in length. These boards need to be connected together in a cross shape to make a base for the end table.
The top outer corners of the base need to be trimmed off at 45-degrees. Measure ¾” from the top corner and then with a miter saw trim off at 45-degree. See picture.
Step 4 – Build the Base for the End Table
Set your Kreg Jig setting to 1 ½” wood thickness and drill two pocket holes on one end of both 6 1/4” long boards.
Before connecting the base, take your random orbital sander and sand the boards. Then on the backside of the 16” boards, find and mark the center of that board, as well as the centers of the 6 1/4” boards. Apply wood glue to the 6 1/4” pieces and align the pieces to the center marks of the 16” board. Clamp the boards to your workbench using a Kreg Clamp and drive in 2 ½” pocket hole screws to secure the boards together.
Next, take 1×2 board and cut four pieces to 3 ½”. Place these four pieces on the bottom side of the base on each end and attach using 1 ¼” bran nails with a nail gun.
Step 5 – Attach Diagonal Legs to the Central Pedestal Shaft
Take 2×2 and cut one piece to 10 3/8” in length. This board will be in the center pedestal shaft of the end table with all diagonal legs attaching to it.
Before connecting the boards, using your random orbital sander to sand the diagonal and vertical legs that you’ve cut in steps 1 and 2. Then place the center shaft board on your workbench and attach two lower diagonal legs on the opposite sides with wood glue and 1 ¼” brad nails. Then attach the upper diagonal legs. The 64-degree miter cut on the diagonal legs should align with the end of the center shaft. See picture.
Step 6 – Connect Vertical Legs to Diagonal Legs of the End Table
Now take two vertical legs and connect them to the diagonal legs with wood glue and 1 ¼” brad nails. Since both ends of the vertical leg are cut at 64-degrees, they should be connected about 3 3/8” from the end of the diagonal leg.
Step 7 – Finish Attaching the Remaining Legs
To fishing connecting the remaining legs, lift up what you have already built and stand it on your workbench. Then glue and nail the other two opposite legs to the center shaft. Having the legs stand upright on a flat surface allows you to connect the legs flat on the workbench. Otherwise, you could potentially have one leg slightly higher than the other causing the table to wobble. Flip the legs upside down and attach the upper diagonal legs.
Now attach the remaining two vertical legs as you’ve done in step 6.
Step 8 – Cut Table Top Boards
Take 1×8 and cut two pieces to 14 1/2″ in length. These two boards will be used for the tabletop. Measure and mark 3 3/4″ from the edges on both ends of the board. Then cut the corners off at 45-degree from that mark. See picture. Repeat the same process for the other 14 1/2″ board. When connecting these boards together you’ll get an octagon-shaped tabletop.
Step 9 – Drill Pocket Holes on the Tabletop Boards
Set your Kreg Jig to 3/4″ wood thickness and drill pocket holes as shown in the picture. You will need three pocket holes along the center for the two tabletop boards, to connect with each other. Then you’ll need two pocket holes on each octagon edge. The screws in these pocket holes will hold the side pieces around the tabletop.
Once the pocket holes are drilled, apply wood glue between the tabletop boards and clamp them together. Then drive in 1 1/4″ pocket holes screws to connect the boards.
Step 10 – Cut and Attach Side Pieces Around the Tabletop
Now you have to cut 8 side pieces around the tabletop. Since this is the most visible part of the table, it’s important to cut these side pieces accurately. To do that, each side would need to be measured individually and custom cut to its actual size.
Start by cutting one end of 1×2 to 22.5-degrees. Place the piece against one of the sides of the tabletop and mark where the cut needs to be made for that side. Then make the cut with the miter saw. Repeat the process going around the table and cutting all pieces. Unless you make a perfect cut of your tabletop, each side piece will have a slightly different length so that they could fit perfectly.
Next, attach these side pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket holes screws. Make sure to clamp the tabletop and side pieces together before driving in the screws. This will prevent the boards from shifting and misaligning.
After everything is attached, use a random orbital sander to sand the top and the sides to eliminate any rough edges.
Step 11 – Stain and Paint the Base, Legs, and the Tabletop
Before connecting the tabletop to the legs and legs to the base, it’s a good idea to stain these sections first. It makes the staining process much easier when these sections are separate.
Before staining the boards, apply a coat of pre-stain. This will prevent the stain from being blotchy. Then apply a coat of Espresso stain with a brush and wipe it off with a shop paper towel. After the stain dries, take a dry brush and dip the tip of the brush into the white paint and brush it against the paper towel, to make sure the paint is not running off the brush. Then lightly brush it against the boards in the direction of the wood grain. This will create a whitewash effect on the furniture. You could apply as much or as little white paint as you want.
After the paint dries apply a coat of polyurethane to protect the paint and wood.
Step 12 – Attach Base, Legs, and Tabletop Together
Finally, after the paint dries, attach the boards together with 1 1/4 brad nails. You’re done with a DIY Farmhouse End Table.
4 thoughts on “How to Build a DIY Farmhouse End Table”
We really like these tables. Bubba is out purchasing the lumber to make them for living room lamps.
Tables are finished. We distress the wood with a solution of small pieces of steel wool soaked in vinegar. Picked that up from the net. They came out very nice. TY for the inspiration.
Thank you Rusty!