If you’re looking to add a little something extra to your backyard or outdoor space, consider building a DIY outdoor bar. Not only will this provide a great spot for parties or entertaining guests, but it can also be a stylish and functional addition to your home.
Building a patio bar doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive. With a little planning and some basic carpentry skills, you can easily construct a bar that will provide years of enjoyment.
There are many benefits to building your own DIY outdoor bar. It can save you money, as you will not have to buy a premade bar or pay for someone to build one for you. It can also be a fun and rewarding project, giving you a sense of pride and accomplishment when it is finished. Additionally, it can be customized to exactly meet your needs, style, and preferences, meaning that you will have the perfect outdoor bar for your home or garden.
What Types of Outdoor Bars are out there?
There are many different types of outdoor bars that you can choose to build. You can opt for a wooden bar style if you want a more traditional look. These bars are typically made from cedar or redwood and can be stained or painted to match your other outdoor furniture.
If you’re looking for something a little more modern, you could try a metal bar. These bars are often made from aluminum or stainless steel and can be powder coated to resist rusting. If you’re looking for a more unique or rustic look, you could try a wicker bar or DIY pallet bar. Wicker is a material that is often used in outdoor furniture and can give your bar a one-of-a-kind appearance.
The outdoor bars come in different sizes. It can be a small bar cart or a large stand with walls, a roof, and a fancy interior design. There are also reclined murphy bars attached to the wall and much more…
You might also be interested in outdoor plans such as, DIY outdoor arbor swing or DIY Garden Arbor with a Bench.
Time to Complete
20 hours
Total Cost
$1700
Skill Level
Intermediate
Download Printable Plans in PDF
Material List
- Available with purchase of PDF plans.
Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size. See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.
Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links.
Dimensions
Step 1 – Cut Frame Boards for the Front Panel of the DIY Bar
First, start with building the front panels of the DIY bar. Take 2×4 lumber and cut four pieces to 32 3/4″ in length, two boards to 56 1/4″, and one piece to 116″ in length. Also, take 4×4 board and cut one piece to 36 1/4″ in length. Then drill two pocket holes on both ends of each 2×4 piece. The middle 4×4 board gets pocket holes only on the top, not the bottom.
To drill the pocket holes, you will need to use a Kreg Jig. This Jig is very useful in building DIY projects. If you don’t have one, I would recommend getting this tool. It is very easy to operate, easy to learn how to use, and you could do so many awesome projects with it once you learn all the tricks.
Step 2 – Assemble Section of the Front Panel Frame
Once the pocket holes are drilled, take the two 56 1/4″ and four 32 3/4″ boards and assemble two sets of U-shaped frames, using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. See the picture for details. Make sure to clamp the boards together so they do not shift while driving in the screws.
Step 3 – Build the Front Panel Frame of the DIY Outdoor Bar
Next, take the 116″ board and mark the middle of the board (at 58″). Then take the 4×4 post and attach it exactly in the middle of the 116″ board using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Now attach the U-shaped frames on both sides of the 4×4 post. Make sure the pocket holes on the U-shaped frames are facing the back. All the boards should be flushed to the back of the 116″ piece.
Step 4 – Cut Siding Boards for the Front Outdoor Bar Panel
Now it is time to fill in the front panel. There are several different ways you could do that. Option one is to install 1×8 boards horizontally by overlapping them (I think this option looks the best). Option two is to purchase a plywood siding panel, cut it to size and install it (it doesn’t look as good, but it’s much cheaper). The other option is to install actual house siding.
For this tutorial, we are going with option one. Take 1×8 lumber and cut sixteen boards to 56 1/4″ in length.
Step 5 – Attach Siding Boards to the Front Panel
Starting from the bottom, place the first 56 1/4″ board flat on the frame. Then attach it using a nail gun with 2″ brad nails. You could instead use wood screws if you do not have a nail gun. Since these 1×8 boards do not support any weight, brad nails will work just fine.
Working your way up, place the second board overlapping the lower piece by 3/4 of an inch. Then nail it to the frame. Continue working up, attaching the remaining boards to the panel frame. The upper board might be too tall, so you will need to trim it with a table or skill saw.
Repeat the process so that both sides of the front panel are complete.
Step 6 – Build the Left Side Panel Frame of the DIY Outdoor Bar
The construction of the left panel is the same as the front, just a different size.
Take 2×4 and cut four pieces to 32 3/4″ in length and two pieces to 65″ in length.
Drill two pocket holes on each end of the 2×4 board.
Now assemble the boards together following the dimensions and layout provided in the picture. It is important to get the 14 1/2″ correct because this 2×4 will support the lower and upper shelf in the bar.
Step 7 – Build the Right Side Panel Frame
For the right panel frame, take 2×4 lumber and cut three boards to 32 3/4″ in length and two boards to 41″ in length. Then drill pocket holes and assemble as shown in the picture. Again, make sure to have the 14 1/2″ measurement correct for the shelf attachment.
Step 8 – Cut and Attach the Siding Boards for Side Panels
Take 1×8 and cut eight boards to 41″ in length and eight boards to 65″ in length. Then nail them to the left and right side panels, following the same process as step 5.
Step 9 – Cut Front Posts and Attach them to the Front Panel
Now it’s time to cut the main post of the outdoor bar. If you plan to have the posts inserted into the ground, you will need to cut them longer. But for this tutorial, the bar posts will be standing on a concrete patio floor.
Take 4×6 lumber and cut two pieces to 84″ in length for the front posts. Then cut one 4×4 board to 120″ in length for the roof truss. Next, drill pocket holes on both ends of the 4×4 board. These pocket holes will be used later when connecting the roof trusses.
Place the front panel face down on the ground. Then place 4×6 posts on both sides of the panel. Attach the panel to the posts using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Ensure the bottom of the post is flush with the bottom of the front panel.
Now attach the 4×4 board on top, as shown in the picture. Make sure to center this board so that it sits equally on both posts. You should have a 3 1/2″ space on both sides of the 4×6 post. To attach the 4×4 board, you could drive 4 1/2″ screws from the top into the post or drill additional pocket holes in the 4×6 post and then use pocket hole screws.
Step 10 – Attach Side Panels to the Front of the DIY Outdoor Bar
Have someone help with standing up the front posts and panel. Then attach the left and right side panels to the front posts.
When attaching the side panels, ensure the top board is flush with the front of the post. You could also double-check by pulling a measurement from the sides to get 127″ inches.
Step 11 – Build the Shelves for the Inside of the Bar
Now it is time to build the inside shelves. For the lower shelf, take 2×4 lumber and cut two boards to 120″ in length and three boards to 11 1/2″.
For the upper shelf, cut two boards to 120″ in length and three boards to 18 3/4″.
Now drill two pocket holes on each end of the 2×4 boards. Next, assemble the frame as shown in the picture with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Step 12 – Insert and Secure Both Shelves to the Outdoor Bar
Depending on what you are planning to keep on the lower shelf, it could be installed at any height you want. However, for this tutorial, the lower shelf is placed at 11″ from the ground. For attaching the shelf, you will need to use a combination of pocket hole screws and regular wood screws where possible.
Now attach the upper shelf at 33 1/2″ from the ground using wood screws and pocket hole screws.
To keep the shelves from sagging (if you’re going to have heavy items on them, such as an ice chest, cooler, or drinks…), especially in the middle, you will need to add a middle support post. Take one 2×4 and cut it to 32″ in length. Then place it in the middle, under the upper shelf, and in front of the lower shelf.
Step 13 – Place and Attach Shelf Boards to the Frame
Take 1×8 lumber and cut five pieces to 120″ in length. Then place two boards on the lower shelf and three boards on the upper shelf. Secure these boards to the shelf frame with wood screws or brad nails.
Step 14 – Build the Back Wall of the DIY Outdoor Bar
To build the back wall, first, make a frame to support the siding. Then the frame will be attached to the back posts.
Take 2×4 and cut four pieces to 77″ in length and four pieces to 56 1/4″ in length. Then drill pocket holes on the ends of 2x4s as shown in the picture. The longer pieces will have additional pocket holes along the board to keep the frame from moving or shifting.
If you plan to attach a TV or something heavy to the back wall, now is the time to add additional supports or backing to the frame. The siding boards alone might not be strong enough to support heavy objects.
Now attach the back wall frame as shown in the picture. There should be two identical frames for back siding.
Step 15 – Fasten the Siding Boards to the Back Wall Frame
Similar to step 4, you have an option to choose what siding to use for the back wall. Again for this tutorial, we will use 1×8 boards that overlap each other.
Cut thirty-six back siding boards to 56 1/4″ in length.
Now, flip the back wall frames so that pocket holes are facing down. Then starting from the bottom, place the first siding board and attach it with screws.
I recommend using screws (instead of brad nails) for the back wall just to make the wall studier. Later on, you might add shelves to the wall or hang a chalkboard menu. Instead of overlapping the siding boards 3/4″ (like you did in step 5), the back wall would need to overlap by 1″.
Continue attaching the remaining boards up the wall with wood screws.
Repeat the process to get the second frame covered with siding boards.
Step 16 – Assemble the Back Wall Panel
Now take 4×6 and cut two back posts to 84″ in length. Also, take 4×4 and cut one piece to 84″ in length for the middle back post and one piece to 120″ for the back roof truss. Then, drill pocket holes on each end of the 4×4 truss. These pocket holes will be used in the next step when attaching the roof boards together.
Place the 4×4 post in the center between the two back wall panels. Then place the 4×6 posts on the panels’ far left and right sides. Attach the panels to the post with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Ensure the back of both panels are flush with the back of the posts.
Now attach the 4×4 roof truss board on top of the back wall panel the same way as the front truss board in step 9. This roof truss will need to be centered and sitting 2″ on the 4×6 post on both sides. This will leave a 3 1/2″ space on the posts; see picture.
Step 17 – Connect Back Wall to the DIY Bar
Now it’s time to attach the back wall to the rest of the outdoor bar framing.
First, take 4×4 lumber and cut two pieces to 96″ in length for the roof trusses and one piece to 84″ in length for the door post.
Now attach the 4×4 door post to the right-side panel with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Then lift up the back wall and attach it to the left side panel with pocket hole screws. Make sure the wall is leveled.
Next, place the 4×4 roof truss boards on top of the 4×6 post into the 3 1/2″ gap space. To secure the 4x4s, you will need to use 4 1/2″ wood screws from the top and 2 1/2″ pocket holes from the sides. Make sure the truss dimensions in front and back are the same. Also, check the dimensions from side to side. This will ensure you have the wall and panels squared.
Step 18 – Cut and Attach Table Top Support Boards
Before starting on the DIY outdoor bar table, install table support boards on both sides of the bar.
Take 2×4 lumber and cut one board to 79 3/4″ and one board to 55 3/4″. Then, using a miter saw, trim off one corner at 45 degrees, as shown in the picture. This trimmed end will be facing the front of the bar. Do that for both of the table support boards.
Attach the longer support board on the left side of the outdoor bar using 2 1/2″ wood screws. The shorter board will go on the right side. Both boards must protrude out 9 1/4″ from the 4×6 front posts. Also, these support boards must be at the same elevation as the top panel board.
Step 19 – Assemble the Outdoor Bar Table Frame
Since the DIY outdoor bar table goes around on three sides, the easiest way to build it is in sections. So first, start with the left section.
Using 2×4 lumber, cut all pieces to the dimensions provided in the picture. Then drill pocket holes and assemble the frame.
Now repeat the process for the right side of the bar table. Cut pieces to the dimension in the picture and assemble the frame.
Step 20 – Connect Table Frames to the DIY Bar
Take the left table frame and place it on the left side panel and the right frame on the right panel. Adjust the frame so that you’ll have 144″ from the left to the right ends of the table frame. See picture. Make sure that both the front and the back measurements of the table frame are 144″.
Once both table frames are aligned in the center of the outdoor bar, check where you could drill additional pocket holes. These additional pocket hole screws in the table frame will make it much sturdier.
Now you can drive in the screws and attach the table frame to the outdoor bar. You should have an 8 1/2″ measurement from the 4×6 post to the edge of the frame.
Step 21 – Finish Building the Front of the Table Frame
Once both left and right table frames are secured, cut four more 2×4 boards to 15 1/2″. Attach one board against the front post and the other at the edge of the table frame. Do the same on both table frames. See picture.
Now cut one 2×4 board to 144″ in length and attach it to the front of the outdoor bar from the left table frame to the right.
Step 22 – Complete the Back Table Frame
Finish building the back table frame by cutting one 2×4 board to 107″ in length and six 15 1/2″ pieces. Then attach these boards as shown in the picture. You might need to drill additional pocket holes to add more screws and make the frame sturdier.
Step 23 – Attach the Front Table Top Boards
Now that the frame is complete, it’s time to install the tabletop.
Take 1×10 lumber and cut two pieces to 144″ in length. Place one board on the front edge of the frame and attach it with wood screws.
The second 1×10 board will need to have notches around the 4×6 posts. Place the board behind the posts aligning with the front 1×10 board, and using a pencil, mark the exact location of the notch. Then with a skill saw, cut out the notches. Then slide in the board between the posts and attach it with wood screws.
Step 24 – Finish Attaching the Remaining Table Top Boards
Using the same method as in Step 23, cut and attach the tabletop boards on the sides of the outdoor bar. The tabletop measurements are provided in the picture and the cut list.
Step 25 – Cut Lumber for the Roof Trusses
Now it’s time to build the roof. The roof has a slope of 30 degrees, so there will be a lot of 30 and 60-degree angles when cutting the roof pieces.
Take 2×4 lumber and cut ten pieces to 88″ in length, with a miter cut of 60 degrees on one end of each board. Then each board needs to have a small notch cut out. This notch is primarily to keep the roof trusses from sliding apart. Follow the dimensions provided in the picture for exact measurements.
Next, take 2×6 lumber and cut five pieces to 26″ in length, having a 30-degree miter cut on both ends. Now drill pocket holes as shown in the picture.
Step 26 – Assemble the Roof Trusses
Now assemble the roof trusses as shown in the picture using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Once finished, you should have a total of five sets of trusses.
Step 27 – Install the Roof Trusses
Place the first truss at the front edge of the 4×4 horizontal boards. The 4×4 board must slide inside the notch you made in step 25. Then drive in the pocket hole screws that are above the notch.
Continue attaching the remaining trusses 24″ apart. The last truss will have a shorter distance than 24″. This last truss needs to have a 3/4″ space from the back for the plywood.
Next, measure the distance you have between the trusses and cut five boards per each truss bay. Then drill pocket holes on the ends and install them as shown in the picture. These boards will secure the trusses in place and prevent them from swaying.
Step 28 – Install Decor Truss Supports
Before attaching the plywood to the roof, add additional decor truss supports. Take 2×4 and cut two pieces to 27 5/8″ and four boards to 29 5/8″ with a 60-degree miter cut on one end. Drill two pocket holes on each end of the boards.
Now attach these two sets over the 4×4 roof board. Have the pocket holes facing back of the bar. See picture.
Step 29 – Attach Plywood to the Roof Trusses
Now it’s time to install plywood over the roof trusses. First, place a full 4’x8′ sheet of plywood on the lower part of the trusses. Then measure, cut, and install the remaining plywood on the roof, using wood screws to secure the plywood.
Next, install plywood on the back of the trusses. Cut plywood to the dimensions provided in the picture and insert it into the 3/4″ space you made in step 27.
Step 30 – Install Fascia Board and Roof Shingles
Now, like the truss boards, take 1×8 and cut two fascia boards to 88″ with a 30-degrees miter cut on one end. Then attach it to the front truss.
Add roof paper over the plywood starting from the bottom and working your way up. Then attach roof shingles over the paper.
Now you can paint the outdoor bar any color you’d like. There’s also room for additional DIY outdoor bar ideas and modifications like adding a bar entrance door, adding shelves for storage to the back wall, supports for the TV, adding hanging lights or plants, and so on.
You are done with a DIY Outdoor Bar. If you’re interested in building bar stools for the bar, I have plans for those as well.
If I’m not mistaken, the 60 degree and 30 degree cuts are backwards? I am cutting the rafters right now and the rafters are listed as being 60 degrees, when they look like 30, with the rafter supports being listed at 30 when they look like 60 degrees. Am I reading that right?
Thank you,
Sonny