Every so often, we purchase several baby chicks. Our kids really enjoy watching them grow and develop throughout their growth phases. When the chicks were old enough to spend the night outside, I’ve built them a Mobile Triangle-Shaped Chicken Coop to live in. Once they are full-grown, they will be moved to a larger coop. I wanted to have a mobile chicken coop so that I could easily move it around the backyard.
There are so many different chicken coops out there. They come in various shapes and sizes. Most of them are built to be stationed in one place, but I wanted to try a mobile coop.
This coop is perfect for two or three adult chickens in a small backyard. It keeps them in one place, yet it could be moved around. Protecting your garden and areas you care about.
Why have Chickens in Your Backyard?
There are several benefits to keeping chickens in your backyard. Having your own fresh egg production would probably top off the rest of the reasons, but that can depend on personal preference. You can raise a specific breed for meat production. This way, you have control of what your flock is eating. As a result, you will know what’s in your food while eating the eggs or the meat.
Another benefit of raising your own chickens is food recycle. You don’t need to toss the lunch leftovers. Hand them over to your flock. In turn, they’ll give you eggs and also produce beneficial fertilizer for your garden.
Also, they are fun entertainers, especially for kids, yet even adults enjoy the quiet, stress-reducing view of each bird minding their business. Another benefit is how easy it is to take care of them and make sure they have food, water, some space, and a safe area to roam around.
You also might be interested in a larger DIY Chicken Coop that I’ve previously built for our chickens.
Time to Complete
Download Printable Plans in PDF
Tools for this Project
- 1x4x8′ (x5)
- 1x12x8′ (x2)
- 1x12x6′ (x1)
- 1x2x8′ (x2)
- 1x6x4′ (x1)
- 4x4x2′ (x1)
- 1 1/4″ Wooden Dowel Rod (x2)
- 1/2″x1/2″ Wire Mesh Screen
- 2 1/2″ Wide Hinges (3 Pairs)
- Barrel Bolt Latch Lock
- 3 1/2″ Wood Screws
- 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Holes Screws
- 2 1/2″ Pocket Holes Screws
- 2 Wheels 8″ Round
- 1/2″ Staples
- Metal Plumbing Strap
- 1/2″ Round Metal Rod
Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size. See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.
Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links.
Step 1 – Cut Diagonal Frame Boards for the Chicken Coop
Building a triangle-shaped chicken coop makes it very strong and durable compared to a square or rectangular shape.
First, take 2×4 and cut four diagonal frame pieces to 43 1/4″ with 56-degrees miter cut on one end and 34-degree miter cut on the other. The 56-degree cuts will be pointing up, and 34-degree cut pointing down.
Step 2 – Drill Holes for the Handles in Diagonal Boards
These diagonal boards will need to have 1 3/8″ holes for inserting dowel rods to be used as handles. This chicken coop will be mobile like a wheelbarrow, so it will need handles to be lifted and moved around. For the handles, use wooden dowel rods that are typically installed in closets.
Take the diagonal board and from the 56-degree end, measure 20 1/4″ and mark it with a pencil. Then take a 1 3/8 hole saw bit and drill a hole at the 20 1/4″ mark centered on the board. Repeat the process by drilling holes on all diagonal 43 1/4″ boards.
Step 3 – Cut and Drill Pocket Holes in Horizontal Frame Boards
Next, for the horizontal frame boards, take 2×4 and cut two pieces to 43 1/2″ in length and one piece to 45″ in length. Then cut two more boards to 48″ with a 34-degree miter cut on both ends. See picture.
Set your Kreg Jig to 1 1/2″ wood thickness and drill two pocket holes on each end of the straight boards.
Step 4 – Assemble the Mobile Chicken Coop Frame
To assemble the chicken coop frame, first, connect the diagonal boards. Apply wood glue to the 56-degree ends and connect the pieces with 3 1/2″ wood screws. You might need to drill pilot holes before driving in the screws to prevent the wood from splitting.
Then take the 48″ board with 34-degree miter cuts and attach it to the bottom of the diagonal boards, making a triangle. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws. Repeat this step to build the second triangle.
Now the front and the back triangles need to be connected together. First, attach the top 45″ long piece with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket holes screws. Then attach the straight bottom boards to the triangles. This will complete the frame of the chicken coop.
Step 5 – Cut and Attach Roof Boards
Take 1×12 board and cut four roof pieces to 48″ in length. Then attach two of the roof pieces on the left side of the triangle frame. You will need to connect the other two boards for the right side later on, once the floor pieces are installed.
Step 6 – Insert and Secure Wooden Dowel Rods
Now take 6 foot long 1 1/4″ round wooden dowel and insert it through the holes of the diagonal boards. The dowels on the backside of the coop need to be flush with the frame. So this will make the dowels in the front of the chicken coop 2 feet in length.
To prevent the dowel rod from sliding out, take 3/4″ long screws and drive them into the dowel rod, up against the diagonal frame. Having the screws in the dowel will hold it in place from sliding out.
Step 7 – Cut and Install Upper Floor Pieces
The dowel rods inside the chicken coop will serve as supports for the upper floor.
Take the remaining 1×12 and cut two boards to 20″ in length. One of the boards will need to have a notch cut out to slide between the diagonal frame pieces.
Place one of the boards on the dowel rods against the back of the coop. Then with a pencil, draw the notch around both diagonal boards so that that floor piece will slide between the frame. Using a jig saw, cut out the notches on both sides of the floor pieces. Place both boards on the dowel rods and secure them to the rods with wood screws.
Step 8 – Install Boards on the Right Side of the Roof
Now take the roof boards that you have cut in step 5 and attach them to the right side of the roof using 1 1/2″ wood screws.
Step 9 – Build the Side Door Frame of the Chicken Coop
To build a door frame, you could use 1×2, 1×3, or any other similar boards. Since I had an extra 1×12, I ripped the board into 2″ wide pieces using a table saw. If you don’t have a table saw, you could use 1×2 or 1×3 boards.
If you’re using a 1×2 board, cut two pieces to 48″ in length and two pieces to 17 3/4″ in length. Then cut four diagonal pieces to 8 1/2″ in length with a 45-degree miter cut on both ends.
Change your settings on the Kreg Jig to 3/4″ wood thickness and drill pocket holes on the 17 3/4″ pieces and diagonal 8 1/2″ pieces.
Now connect the boards together to build a door frame using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Then attach the diagonal pieces to four corners. See picture. These diagonal boards will have the door frame stronger.
Step 10 – Attach the Door Frame to the Chicken Coop
Take 2 1/2″ door hinges and attach them to the lower roof board. Then attach the frame to the hinges leaving a 1/8″ gap between the door and the roof board.
Step 11 – Install a Back Door to Access Upper Floor
The back door of the coop is to get access to the upper floor for cleaning.
Take a 1×12 board and place it against the back of the coop so that the bottom is flush with the floor pieces. Then draw the lines following the slope of the roof. Cut along the lines with the miter saw to make the backdoor.
Like the side door, attach the backdoor to the diagonal frame boards with 2 1/2″ hinges.
Step 12 – Install Triangle Piece Above the Backdoor
Similar to step 11, place a 1×12 board above the backdoor and draw the guideline following the roof’s slope. Then cut it with a miter saw and attach it above the door using 1 1/2″ wood screws. Make sure to leave a 1/8″ gap between the door and the triangle piece so that the door could open.
Next, attach the barrel bolt latch lock between the door and the triangle piece, to keep the door locked.
Step 13 – Add Wheels to the Back of the Chicken Coop
The wheels for this project could be any size you want, as long as you install them so the chicken coop is 1″ off the ground. Depending on the size of your wheels, that will determine how high you need to install the metal shaft. For this project, I’m using 8″ wheels with a 1/2″ metal shaft rod.
Take a 4×4 board and cut two pieces to 12″ in length. Then, place the shaft rod on the 4×4 block about 1″ from the top. Then secure the shaft rod to the 4×4 with a plumbing metal strap. Make sure the rod is sticking out enough for the wheel to slide on. Slide the wheel on the shaft rod and then install a clamp on the edge of the rod. This will prevent the wheel from coming off the rod. I used a 1/2″ cable clamp on the edge of the rod.
Once the wheels are secured to the 4×4 blocks, then attached these blocks to the bottom of the back coop frame. Make sure the back of the coop is raised 1″ from the ground.
Step 14 – Attach Wire Mesh Screen Around the Chicken Coop
The last item to install before wrapping the coop with a wire mesh screen is the ramp. Take 1×8 board and cut it to 20″ in length. Then use the remaining 1×8 board to cut eight pieces to 3/4″ in length. Evenly space out these 3/4″ boards on top of the 20″ ramp board and staple them with 1 1/4″ brad nails.
Now take a 1 1/2″ hinge and attach it to the top end of the ramp. Then attach the ramp with the hinge to the floor piece inside the chicken coop. Having the hinge on the ramp will allow you to raise it when moving the chicken coop.
And for the last part, take a 1/2″x1/2″ wire mesh screen and attach it around the chicken coop with a staple gun. You are done with a DIY Mobile Triangle-Shaped Chicken Coop.