Is your toddler beginning to master the art of using the toilet or trying to wash hands in a sink? Toddlers need a little boost to reach things that are just out of their reach, but you don’t want them climbing on furniture that could be a safety hazard. A DIY toddler kitchen helper tower is the perfect solution! This project is easy and can be completed in just a few hours. Plus, it’s affordable and can be tailored to fit your child’s needs. Read on for instructions on how to build your own DIY toddler step stool with a guard rail.
A toddler learning tower can be a great asset for parents with young children. They provide a safe and sturdy platform for toddlers to stand on so they can reach things that are just out of their reach. Plus, they can help toddlers feel more independent and confident as they explore their world. With a kitchen helper, your toddler can help out in the kitchen, wash their hands at the sink, or even brush their teeth. And, if you build a learning tower with a guard rail, you can rest assured that your toddler will be safe and secure while they’re using it.
There are multiple studies indicate that giving your child tools and space to express their independence directly correlates with the reduction of depression and anxiety disorder. Step stools are one small way to encourage toddlers’ independence.
Why Build Your Own DIY Toddler Tower
There are many benefits to building a DIY toddler step stool as opposed to buying one. First of all, it’s more affordable. Second, it’s a fun woodworking project that you can do with your child! Building a DIY toddler kitchen helper tower with your child can be a great bonding experience. Plus, they’ll be excited to use their very own learning tower that you made just for them.
Types of Step Stools
There are several different types of step stools out there. A simple one-step or two-step is most common. This could be used for getting off the toilet or reaching for a book on the shelf.
But if you want your child to help out in the kitchen, a taller step stool with guard rails is essential for the safety of your child. You don’t want your child to stand on tiptoes and reach for something with a risk of falling. It’s also important to have a wide step so that a child can stand on it comfortably. But you also don’t want it too wide that it doesn’t fit in your confined space.
Finding a perfect step stool could be a challenging task. You have to consider the size and the cost. Also, for the safety of the child, you want to make sure the step stool is durable.
With all of that in mind, why not make your own custom step stool that fits your needs. I build this project for my niece since she’s at that stage of always wanting to wash her hands in the bathroom by herself. Standing on the toilet and reaching over to turn on the sink and washing her hands is not a very safe practice. So this kitchen helper should help out a lot.
You could always modify the plans that I created for what you’re looking for. You also might be interested in a single-step stool I made earlier, also DIY Sensory Table with Water Ramps for kids.
Time to Complete
4 hours
Total Cost
$30
Skill Level
Intermediate
Toddler Step Stool with Guard Rail PDF
$8.97
This PDF download includes Cut Diagrams, a List of Supplies, and 3D illustrations with detailed steps to build the project. Measurements are in imperial and not metric. Does NOT include SketchUp/CAD files.
The plans are embedded on the webpage for free, but if you would like to support the website, you can pay a small fee to purchase the printable PDFs.
Thank you for your support!
Tools for this project
Material List
- Available with purchase of PDF plans.
Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size. See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.
Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links.
Dimensions
Step 1 – First Cut 36” Long Legs
First, start with cutting the longest pieces, which are the legs. Take 1×4 and cut four legs to 36 inches in length.
Step 2 – Drill Holes for Upper Step Adjustment
From the bottom of the leg, measure 10 5/8″ and mark the center of the middle hole. Then measure 3″ up and 3″ down for an additional two holes (see picture). These holes are for adjusting the height of the upper step. Clamp two of the legs together and drill the holes with a 1 3/8″ Hole Saw Bit. Do this for both sets of legs.
Step 3 – Cut Boards for the Steps
Next, take 1×12 and cut three pieces to 14″ in length. Using a Table Saw, the lower step will need to be ripped to 7 1/4″ in width and the front board to 5 1/2″ in width. The upper step will be left unripped at 11 1/4″ in width.
Step 4 – Cut Frame Boards for Lower Step
Now take 1×4 and cut two pieces to 17 3/4″ in length and one piece to 12 1/2″ in length. Then using a Table Saw rip those three pieces in half. So the width of the boards will come out to be around 1 3/4″. These boards are for supporting the lower step.
Step 5 – Sand all Boards for the Kitchen Helper Stool
Before assembling the step stool, use a random orbital sander to sand the boards. Then take a pair of 17 3/4 pieces and attach one 12 1/2″ piece, as shown in the picture, using Wood Glue and Nail Gun with 1 1/4″ Brad Nails.
Step 6 – Nail the Lower Step to the Frame
Next, place the lower step (7 1/4″ wide board) on top of the 17 3/4″ pieces. Make sure that this lower step board overhangs by 3/4 of an inch. Apply Wood Glue and nail it from the top.
Step 7 – Attach the Front Board of the Toddler Step Stool
Repeat step 5. Take the second set of 17 3/4″ pieces and attach a 12 1/2″ piece. Then take the front board (5 1/2″ wide) and attach it to this frame with Wood Glue and Brad Nails.
Step 8 – Assemble the Lower Step Frame
Now attach these two sections together with Wood Glue and Brad Nails.
Step 9 – Glue and Nail the Back Legs
Then attach the back legs to the step frame with Wood Glue and Brad Nails. Make sure the legs are flush with the frame in the back.
Step 10 – Nail the Front Legs
Take the front legs and attach them with wood glue and brad nails. Place the front legs right after the lower step. Make sure that the distance between the legs is the same at the bottom and at the top. This will ensure that the legs are straight.
Step 11 – Attach Pieces at the Top of the Legs
Similar to step 4, take 1×4 and cut one piece to 15 1/2″ in length and another piece to 12 3/4″. Then rip them in half to 1 3/4″ wide. Attach these pieces at the top of the legs. The back and side pieces will be attached with Wood Glue and nails. But the front piece will be attached only with screws. This way you could remove the front piece later if you need to.
Step 12 – Use Wooden Dowel Rods for Upper Step Support
For the upper adjustable step supports, use 1 1/4″ wooden dowel rods. Typically, this dowel rod is used for hanging close in the closet. Cut two dowel rods to 15 1/2″ in length.
Step 13 – Clamp Dowel Rods to the Step Board
Check to make sure the adjustable upper step board fits between the legs. You might want to trim off 1/8 of an inch so that you can easily slide it in and out. Place the step over the dowel rods and mark it where it needs to be attached. Then secure the dowel rods to the step board with ridged pipe strap clamps and 3/4″ wood screws. To adjust the step, loosen the screws and slide the rods out and adjust to a different height. Now you could paint the project in any paint color you want. You’re done with this DIY Toddler Kitchen Helper Tower.
Best directions I have seen on any diy project. Thanks!
Thank you Patti.
I agree! Love how you showed the full 2×4 and what you break them down into! Thanks for doing all the measurements for us 👍😂
How do the dowel rods not spin and cause the step to roll backwards or forwards??
Hi Tim, The clamps hold the dowel rod tight, so it does not spin. If you need to adjust the step, loosen the clamps and slide out the dowel rods.
What size ridged clamp did you use? I’m using a 1-1/2 clamp and it’s way too loose.
Hi Tim,
I think I used a 1″ pipe clamp. That keeps a tight grip on the dowel rod.
Even the 1″ was just to big to hold the dowel tight for me using a 1 1/4. Got creative and had some extra husky tool box lining I wrapped the dowel with using cla. Now that sucker is tight and not going anywhere. Thank you so much for the awesome plans/instruction!!
I agree 100%. Love the colored drawings. Built it for my 18 month granddaughter out of some recycled double bed mattress slats and an old shovel handle. Only cost was a small can of stain and pipe clamps. Great job
Thanks Viktor. I’m going to make a couple of these for my great grandsons.
Brilliant! Kids should be helping to cook and having fun in the kitchen.
I agree! My kids love to help in the kitchen, even simple things like mixing a salad. Or peeling boiled eggs, it may not look the prettiest but its a lot of fun for them.
I think this would work in a larger size for an elderly person in the kitchen, in their closet. They would have a handle so they do not lose their balance!
With some modifications, yes it’s possible to do that.
FANTASTIC!!! Is this strong for an adult? At 63 yrs. I still like doing my own thing around I our home. Last July 2019, I suffered a major stroke, I thank God everyday for my health and thank Him for my hubby who is a retired firefighter with 35 years. He saw all the signs and got me to the ER in time for the tPA. I’m shaky with steps, up and down. And this looks like it would be safer than the step ladders. Thank You!
Hi Linda. I’m making this item for my grandchild 20-25 lbs. From the instructions that were given I would not say that it’ll support a grownup safely.
Great instructions! Simple and fun project. Made one for my grand-daughters 3rd birthday and she loves it. I was considering adding some storage beneath the first step, but was pressed for time. Maybe for the next one…
I will be making this on Saturday using Azek materials to avoid painting and finishing. Also easier to keep clan. Any possible downside to using a PVC type product?
Hi Mark, so far I had no issues with the PVC railing that I’ve built. However, I’ve heard that some PVC pipes disintegrate due to sun exposure. I’ve painted my PVC railing with outdoor paint and should protect it from UV light. But if you’re using PVC pipes that already have UV protection, then you should be fine. One thing that I would change if I had to do it over again, is I would put more decorative caps on top instead of regular sprinkler caps. I’ve seen some awesome looking caps out there.
Awesome instruction and amazing stool!!!! Thanks for sharing.
Next project will be the toys storage.
Great 👍🏽. Good job. You are the best. Thanks. Saving me some money. Making one for my grand.
Thank you Reggie!
Hi Viktor. Do you suggest painting or staining prior to or after.
Hi Reggie. I would stain it after. I agree that it’s easier to stain the pieces when they are not assembled but you will not be able to use wood glue. Wood glue works best when the boards are not stained or painted. Having the boards glued will keep the step stool sturdy for many years.
Where do you get your wood. We priced it out at Home Depot and it is $40 just for wood , no nails or clamps. Just wondering as it’s getting pricey
Hi Fran, I buy wood mainly at Home Depot. Looks like the price varies from state to state. I checked the price in California compared to other states and its slightly different. Also, the price constantly changes, mostly going up. I remember building a bunk bed for kids about two years ago, it cost me around $400 of material, but now it’s probably double that.
I used wood from a furniture pallet- 4 1×6 boards, which I ripped to different widths. Had some wider boards for the steps. Instead of a dowel, I used small blocks to set the step on. Also added an end piece so the step wouldn’t slide through.
Thank you for the plans. In process of making one for my daughter and one for a niece. I am going with pocket screws. Its a little more work and probably overdoing it, but we will see.
Hi Scott, Yes pocket screws will work just fine, maybe even better than brad nails.
Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!! Just finished the project. My 2 y/o grand loves it. She was excited to be able to see counter top view. The joy on her little face alone was worth all the effort. Thanks brother. You are the best.
Thanks Reggie, It’s exciting to see people enjoy building their own projects. Gives me more determination to create more projects.
We started this today and my husband didn’t quite look at all of the cuts necessary so we have to go get some smaller boards to make the support pieces around the bottom step and the top ledge since we don’t have a table saw. But I am excited for my little girl to use it. She loves to “help”
Thank you for the comment. Hope you enjoy building it, it’s a fun project to build, and very useful.
Any tips on how this can be adjusted safely without using dowel rod? Can I just nail or screw the step board onto the legs? I don’t really mind it being fixed versus adjustable height but just worried about it being sturdy enough to hold kids weight. Thanks!
Hi Marie-Claude, Instead of dowel rods you could just use finish nails and wood glue. If you’re using screws make sure to pre-drill the wood, otherwise, the wood might split. Nails or screws will be strong enough to support a person.
I glued and nailed small wood blocks onto the legs to set the step on. Then I glued and nailed an end piece so the step would not slide out.
Looking at the design it seems that there is only about the 1” width of the 1×4 keeping the dowel from moving out. Any thoughts on locks for the sides to keep the dowels from sliding out the sides?
Any other ideas on support other than dowels? Seems like it might be a pain to slide through the clamps.
Hi Tom, The clamps hold the dowels fixed, so the dowel will not slide out unless you loosen the screws. You could use screws to hold the step board instead of dowels, but then you will not have an adjustable step.
To keep the dowels from moving out of the holes in the legs, wrap a hose clamp around each the end of each dowel. If a pipe clamps on the step interferes Skimon with the hose clamp, move the pipe clamp inwards to make space. Once the dowels are in the leg holes, slide the hose clamps to the two ends of the dowel until each hose clamp butts up against the inside of a leg. Then tighten the hose clamp. The thickness of the hose clamp will stop the dowel from sliding through the leg-hole. When it’s time to move the step into a different set of holes, loosen the hose clamps. Slide the hose clamps inwards toward the pipe clamps. Re-position and tighten the hose clamps once the dowels are in their new position.
Second sentence in the above comment should read:
“If a pipe clamp on the step interferes with the hose clamp, move the pipe clamp inwards (towards the centre of the step) to make space”
Thank you…the best plans, diagrams, pictures I’ve seen, making this an easy project to complete. And this was for my Grandchild. I live in NJ and cost of materials where a bit higher; about 46, not including finishing. You didn’t specifically mention the rigid clamps needed, but I found the 1 inch Oakey clamps from HD fit the 1 1/4 dowel….and they come in a four-pack. Might have to put a piece of duct tape on the inside to make sure they snug up. Here are the slight modifications I made: 1.) first step extends 3/4 inch on the sides and front, with rounded edges. 2.) second step front edge rounded (this was done to both because a square edge step, especially in pine, will easily chip off) 3.) Increased the overall width by one inch. (daughters request) 4.) Bottom step was attached with Stainless Steel screws to make finishing easier.
I’m also very happy with the finish my daughter wanted…all white with the exception of the steps, which were stained and varnished…..looks very sharp.
With this being my first grandchild, I’m sure I’ll be repeating this build again and again.
Thanks again!
Hi Paul, Thank you for the comment!
Is the enclosed top rail necessary? In the plans there is the last wood piece you would have to duck under while stepping up, however in the initial photos, that last rail piece is not there. Is it critical to the structure to have it?
Thanks for the awesome plans!
Hi Fin, the front piece is not necessary and the guard rail is strong enough without it. Some people prefer to have it to prevent a child from falling back.
Your project directions are amazing. Thank you so much
Thank you Kim!
Which type of wood material would you suggest?
Hi Ashley, I use Pine on most of my projects. It’s the cheapest and easy to work with.
First off I want to say thanks so much for taking the time to put together these plans. This was my very first woodworking project and you made it quite easy to follow along. I did however run into some roadblocks so I wanted to help contribute to those who attempt the project in the future.
1) Getting the front and back legs straight with equal distance didn’t work out for me. I’m sure I’m just lacking the know-how but I attached them in a similar fashion in the phots and they are crooked at the top despite my best intentions. Any tips for how to complete this step accurately?
2) I didn’t have a table saw so I used a circular saw. This wasn’t as accurate, and was a challenge halving the smaller pieces but I was able to get it to work. Enough where no one will probably notice.
3) I purchased the 1 1/4″ dowel rod and 1 1/4″ clamps but the clamps were too big for the rod and didn’t secure it well. I went back and even found another brand with the same problem. Not sure why that is. I ended up using 1″ clamps that seem to do the job. It was just a little tougher pushing the rods through.
4) I didn’t have a 1 1/4″ hole saw but I did have a 1 3/8″ so I used that and although not tight, the platform seems stable enough and only moves ever so slightly. I think this may be due to the unevenness however in my front and back legs that wedges the platform a bit.
5) When attaching the front piece with screws, the wood split … on both sides. I screwed it in according to the photos so not sure why this happened. I used longer screws since the 3/4″ obviously aren’t long enough. There was no mention of what kind of screws for this step.
Thanks again for this project. I feel quite proud I was able to make something for my 18 month old son. Any tips would be helpful as I’m really looking to learn more!
Thanks for the comment.
Sometimes I forget to add details for beginners and assume that people already know the tricks of woodworking. But, good job on tackling this project, especially if this is your first.
To make the legs straight you could probably use two scrap pieces that are the same length and place them between the legs to ensure the same distance from top to bottom.
To prevent the wood from splitting, you need to pre-drill a pilot hole before driving in the screw.
Thanks Viktor for the reply. Drilling a pilot just didn’t cross my mind. I feel quite accomplished building from this project so thanks for playing a part in my introduction to word working. Looking forward to many more projects!
How did you get the circular saw to work? I’m in the same boat with no table saw(looking around to see if someone has one). I’m worried the board isn’t wide enough…
Mark, if you don’t have a table saw to rip the pieces in half, you could just use 1×2 board instead. If you take 1×4 board and rip it in half you’ll get 1×2 board. HomeDepot sells 1x2s
Hi everyone! Any ideas for finishing the project? I used pine and some have used a non-wax shellac followed by polyurethane. I am going to keep the pine look so wasn’t planning on staining or painting but want to protect the wood from damage especially since it’ll be used in the kitchen. Would love to bring out the natural wood grains as well if possible. Any recommendations? Thanks so much!
I would use several coats of water-based matte polyurethane
Be careful about using gloves with a table saw! It can make an injury even more severe
Viktor, I am unable to download the plans. The download keeps failing.
Great plans though!
Phil
Great. Plans just built one very easy
Nice!
Thanks for the plans! Just built one yesterday for my son. Ended up finding 3X Pine stair treads did an excellent job for the wood. Cost was about the same, and it provided some nice rounded edges for the stairs, and the top rail.
Hello! What size strap clamp should be used?
Hi Peter, you could use 1 1/4″ clamps.
Hi there,
Can I use 1 1/2 hole saw instead of 1 3/8? Will it be too loose?
Kris
If after using a 1 1/2” hole saw to make the holes in the legs you find that the dowels are too loose, try wrapping electrical tape around the ends of the dowels. The thickness of the tape will take out the wobble. Electrical tape will give a little compliance to the joint, and at the same time some grip between the dowels and the holes.
Very nice. I just built it from your plan. Easy to build. Thank you for sharing!
Paid for the PDF after I built it, it was that good! Keep it up. Looking for following you.
Thank you very much Larry!
Do you think using a finishing nail gun would be bad instead of a brad nailer? Thanks and great write up!
Hi Mark, You should be fine using a finishing nail gun. The difference between the two is the finish nails are slightly larger than brad nails. But they both work.
Thank you! I went with the brad nailer in the end. I also just bought the PDF.
Would you have any ideas on how to make the safety rail easily removable so you can put it back securely after the little one gets up on the stool?
Hi Mark, Thanks for purchasing the PDF and supporting the website.
You could probably install a hinge on one end of the safety rail, this will allow you to open and close it. Then on the other side, you could install a Latching Safety Rotating Eye Hasp. Once you close the safety rail, you could twist the latch to lock it in place.
Me again….lol. Question, what if I took the 1x4x6 and cut it in half and then cut the four sections from that? The yellow,brown,orange, and purple sections (from your diagram) could all fit from the one 6’ board. Just wondering, thanks!!
Hi Mark, you are correct, that will be a better layout. Thanks for the suggestion. I will make that correction.
Oh no no no, I wasn’t trying to correct you I promise! Your plans are great, it’s just I don’t have a table saw and I’m going to a friends house to cut the 6’ board. Was just worried I was missing something if I got all the the pieces from one board 🙂
Por apurado fallé al mantener los marcos a escuadra 90°. También pinte las tablas antes de aplicar el pegamento. Voy a empezar de nuevo y a corregir estas fallas. El diseño esta excelente.
Just finished and very happy about it! Wish I could send or attach pictures on here. Thank you again!
Any ideas on how to take out a slight wobble?
Hi Mark,
Is it wobbling because it’s not even at the bottom? Or is it wobbling because the wood joints are loose? Did you use wood glue?
It’s wobbling because it’s uneven at the bottom. These were fantastic plans, but I’m still an amateur lol. I used wood glue and brad nails. Would you recommend trying to shave the bottom off or adding something to it?
Mark, If it’s uneven at the bottom, HomeDepot has adhesive felt pads that you could attach at the bottom. I use these sometimes when I have an uneven table or a chair.
Thanks, Adelaide Becnel for thediyplan.com
They are held in place with u clips normally found on electrical conduit fixing it to walls and roofs
Victor
Great plans and the build time estimate was very helpful and accurate.
I did come up with a solution for the loose dowels in the pipe clamps that may be helpful to others. In one pipe clamp on each dowel drill a hole in bottom inverted ridge.
Attach the pipe clamps to the bottom of the step per your directions. With the dowels in place and in their final location clamp the dowels to the steps and run a 3/4 inch wood screw through the hole drilled in the pipe clamp. (It would be best if you drill a pilot hole first). It will keep the dowels from moving and will not impact the aesthetics of the finished aesthetics.
Hi Skip, Yes that will also work having a screw through the pipe clamp and dowel. Thanks for the suggestion.
Awesome work Viktor! :clap:
Thanks
Hello!
Just wondering if brad nails/glue was strong enough to hold everything together? Did anyone opt to use screws as well?
Hi Craig, I’ve built this step stool several years ago and it’s still being used by my sister. Glue and brad nails are very strong.
Hi all – I’m excited to build this, but I don’t have a nail gun. Could I hammer in the Brad nails (or perhaps use a Brad pusher), or is that going to be a royal pain? I’m a new woodworker, so not sure if I’ll use a Brad nail gun enough to warrant buying one…. Thanks!
Hi Dave, Using a nail gun does the job cleaner. But I’m sure you could use a hammer and brad nails. If you have any scrap wood pieces, maybe you test them out using a hammer and nails to build something small and see how it goes.
Great, thanks for the thoughts!