After building a 6 drawer dresser for our bedroom, I wanted the dresser to have a mirror above it. I had an old mirror from a closet door that was sitting in my shack for many years. So I wanted to use it but I didn’t want to hang a raw mirror on a wall. I went searching for different dresser mirror ideas that I could make. After some research, I decided to make a DIY Live Edge Mirror.

I came across a picture on Pinterest of a live edge mirror that someone was selling on Etsy for over $500. It was made with a real wood slab and a real live edge. Spending $500 on a mirror was a bit too much, so I made an imitation of a live edge from a 1×12 board. Not counting the mirror this project cost me about $60 to make. Though this is not a true live edge mirror, it doesn’t look too bad for that price.  

To match the dresser, I used the same staining and painting method as I did with the drawer boards. 

If you have any suggestions or questions, leave a comment below.

Live Edge Mirror Frame PDF

$6.97

This PDF download includes Cut Diagrams, a List of Supplies, and 3D illustrations with detailed steps to build the project. Measurements are in imperial and not metric. Does NOT include SketchUp/CAD files.

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Live Edge Mirror Frame

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Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size.  See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links. 

Dimensions

Step 1 – Backboard for the Mirror

Depending on your mirror size these dimensions might be different for you. In my case, I’m using a 66″ x 30″ mirror, so all of the dimensions are based on the overall mirror size. The first step is to cut 1/2″ backboard plywood that would be placed behind the mirror. The plywood needs to be 4″ taller than the mirror and 8″ shorter in length than the mirror. The total dimensions of the plywood is 58″ x 34″

Step 2 – Cut Live Edge

Next, take a 1×12 board and cut it to the full length of the mirror, which is 66″. With a pencil draw two parallel live edge designs on the 1×12 so that you’ll get upper and lower boards. Make sure that the pencil lines do not overlap with each other. Cut out the live edge shape by following the pencil lines with a jig saw.

Step 3 – Stain and Paint Live Edge Boards

Once the live edge boards are cut, sand the boards with a random orbital sander to get rid of rough edges after jig saw cut. To stain the boards, use alternating Classic Gray and Jacobean stain for the first layer. Then with a dry brush lightly brush over the stain with plain white paint creating a whitewash effect. I used the same staining method on the 6 drawer dresser project.

Step 4 – Attach Bottom Live Edge Board

Cut 2″ wide by 58″ long strip of 1/4″ plywood. This 1/4″ plywood could be in shorter sections (if 58″ long piece is not available) or a full 58″ long piece. Sandwich the 2″ strip of plywood between the 1/2″ backboard plywood and live edge board. Make sure all three pieces are centered. The live edge board will be 4″ longer on both sides of the backboard. Screw-in 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws from the back to hold the three pieces together. You will have 1/4″ gap between the live edge board and back plywood for the mirror to slide in.

Step 5 – Attach Backboard to the Wall

Now it’s time to attach the backboard to the wall. First, take a Level and draw 66″ horizontal line on the wall. The line will indicate where the top of the backboard will be attached. Next, using stud finder, locate and mark the studs right above the horizontal line. Then, similar to step 4, cut a 58″ long 2″ wide strip of 1/4″ plywood. Before attaching the backboard to the wall, place a Washer in the back of the plywood. This will make a small gap between the plywood and sheetrock for a metal angle to slide in, see step 6. Use 2 1/2″ wood screws to attach the backboard to the wall. Make sure you hit the studs. The mirror is very heavy and needs to be attached to studs, not just sheetrock.

Step 6 – Attach 1 ½” x 2 Simpson Strong-Tie to Upper Live Edge Board

Take the upper live edge board and attach 1 1/2″ x 2″ Simpson Strong-Tie 18-gauge galvanized steel angle on the top. The 1 1/2″ part of the angle will be on top and 2″ part of the angle will be on the backside. Make the edge of the galvanized angle flush with the front of the live edge board. Use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws for attaching the angle since the screws have a flat head.

Step 7 – Place the Mirror and Top Live Edge in Place

And for the final step, slide in the mirror behind the bottom live edge, and then slide the top live edge behind the backboard. You’re done with DIY Live Edge Mirror.